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Plan two weeks in Japan with our Osaka-to-Tokyo route, covering temple stays, autumn gardens, onsen, memorable meals, transport tips and our trip cost.
Trip overview
If you want your Japan trip to include neon-lit streets, peaceful temples, beautiful gardens and a mountain onsen, this route brings them together. The challenge is fitting that variety into two weeks without making every stop feel the same.
We traveled in November, visiting seven cities on a point-to-point journey from Osaka to Tokyo. Autumn is our favorite season for Japan, thanks to the colorful foliage and mild weather. This itinerary shows how we combined busy sightseeing days with an overnight temple stay and time to relax in the mountains.
Autumn colors in Kyoto. · Photo by Omkar Jori on Unsplash
You can follow our travel order without treating it as a rigid day-by-day schedule. Our highlights were Osaka's food scene, Koyasan's serene cemetery, Nara's deer, Kyoto's autumn gardens, Kanazawa's historic districts, an Okuhida ryokan and Tokyo's bright, energetic neighborhoods.
Route & itinerary
- Osaka: food, nightlife and city views.
- Koyasan: temples and an overnight Buddhist temple stay.
- Nara: deer, shrines and a hilltop viewpoint.
- Kyoto: bamboo, historic streets and autumn gardens.
- Kanazawa: markets, museums and Kenroku-en.
- Takayama and Okuhida: traditional streets and an onsen stay.
- Tokyo: neighborhoods, sushi and digital art.
Osaka: start with food and city energy
We arrived late, dropped our bags at the hotel and went straight to Dotonbori. Its neon lights, Glico-Man sign, shops and food options made an energetic introduction to the city. After a few treats, we settled into Ichiran for tonkotsu ramen.
The next day started at Namba Yasaka Shrine, known for its lion-head stage, followed by Osaka Castle. The castle played a major role in Japan's unification during the 16th century. We shopped in Amerika-mura, a center of Osaka youth culture, then visited the Umeda Sky Building observation deck for a wide view over the city.
Koyasan: trade city streets for temple grounds
From Osaka, we headed into the mountains of Wakayama to Koyasan. This small town is a center of Shingon Buddhism, with more than 100 temples, around 50 of which allow overnight stays. We checked into Saizen-in before exploring.
Our visits included Danjo Garan and its great pagoda, Konpo Daito; Daimon Gate, the original entrance to Koyasan; and Kongobu-ji, the head temple of Shingon Buddhism here. At Kongobu-ji, Banryutei rock garden is designed to resemble dragons emerging from clouds. We finished our sightseeing at peaceful Okunoin Cemetery before returning for a vegetarian Buddhist dinner.
Nara: deer, lanterns and a worthwhile climb
Next came Nara, between Osaka and Kyoto. We explored Nara Park, where deer roam freely and local vendors sell feeding crackers. At Todai-ji, we saw the enormous bronze Nara Daibutsu and the pillar opening known as Buddha's Nostril. Crawling through it is said to bring health and good luck.
We continued to Kasuga-Taisha, known for its hundreds of bronze lanterns, then climbed Mount Wakakusa. The hill is 342 meters (1,122 feet) tall. We found the climb manageable and well worth it for views across the city and park. Afterwards, we watched a mochi-pounding demonstration and tried excellent mochi.
Kyoto: give the city several different outings
We took an early train to Arashiyama for the Bamboo Grove and neighboring Tenryu-ji, whose garden was a highlight. Walking along the Katsura River brought us toward Senko-ji, a lovely, quieter-feeling temple with a great view and a resident dog. We also visited Iwatayama Monkey Park, home to more than 100 Japanese snow monkeys, before making a stop at Kinkaku-ji.
Another day took us through Nishiki Market and Gion's historic streets, including Hanami-koji, known for its tea houses. The following morning, we explored Fushimi Inari's thousands of torii gates. For autumn colors, we visited Nanzen-ji, with its large aqueduct, and nearby Eikan-do. Our final Kyoto meal was in atmospheric Pontocho.
Kanazawa: gardens, art and historic districts
We traveled from Kyoto on the JR Thunderbird Limited Express, taking around two hours on our trip. Station-bought bento boxes made a good train meal. Kanazawa's preserved districts explain its nickname, Little Kyoto, while its gold-leaf production accounts for over 99% of Japan's output.
We started at Omicho Market, then explored the D.T. Suzuki Museum and the much larger 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art. The next day brought Oyama Shrine, where we happened to witness a wedding, followed by Kanazawa Castle and Kenroku-en garden.
We also walked through Higashi Chaya, a historic tea-house district whose buildings now include shops and restaurants. Back near the station, we stopped at the red Tsuzumi Gate and caught a street performance.
Takayama and Okuhida: slow down in the mountains
In Takayama, we explored the old town's morning market, Takayama Jinya, a former government headquarters, and Sanmachi-suji. This historic neighborhood has traditional merchant houses and sake breweries, making it a place to try the local sake if that interests you.
We did not have time for Shirakawa-go, so we visited Hida Folk Village instead. Its open-air displays include similar mountain-village houses. Afterwards, we took a bus to our ryokan in Okuhida Onsen for a kaiseki dinner and rooftop bathing.
Before the long journey to Tokyo, we visited the Shinhotaka Ropeway. It climbs nearly 1,000 meters (3,281 feet) to an observatory overlooking Japan's Northern Alps.
Tokyo: finish with contrasting neighborhoods
After arriving by Shinkansen, we began our Tokyo sightseeing at Meiji Shrine, reached through a forest beyond its large torii gate. Nearby Harajuku offered a completely different atmosphere, with Takeshita Street's fashion shops and side streets. We visited Mipig Cafe, then headed to Shibuya Crossing and the rooftop viewpoint at Mag's Park.
We devoted the following day to Akihabara's arcades, shops, anime, manga and gaming culture. On our final day, we explored Teamlab Borderless before finishing in Omoide Yokocho, a narrow alley of small eateries, paper lanterns and the smell of grilling yakitori.
Highlights
Okunoin's quiet atmosphere
Koyasan's mossy cemetery was one of the most memorable places we explored. It stretches for more than 2 kilometers (1.24 miles) and contains over 200,000 graves. We recommend giving yourself an hour or so to wander rather than rushing straight through. The Kobo Daishi Mausoleum adds another layer to the experience: this is where he is said to remain in eternal meditation.
Autumn gardens in Kyoto and Kanazawa
Eikan-do's garden was a wonderful autumn stop, while Kenroku-en was among the most beautiful gardens we visited. Its cone-shaped protective ropes support the trees as winter approaches. If seasonal scenery is important to you, these were particularly rewarding parts of our November route.
A mountain onsen, especially in the morning
Mossy graves and peaceful paths at Okunoin Cemetery. · Photo by Caleb Jack on Unsplash
We had the ryokan's two rooftop onsens almost to ourselves. Rain and clouds hid the night sky, so the evening was still a decent experience rather than a perfect one. Waking early made the difference: daylight revealed the beautiful landscape we had missed the night before.
Tokyo's art and Osaka's honest trade-off
At Teamlab Borderless, we enjoyed the waterfall-inspired artwork, the colorful LEDs of Crystal World and the Forest of Lamps. Not every attraction was equally compelling, though. Osaka's Don Quijote Ferris wheel felt rather gimmicky to us, even if it did provide a view over Dotonbori.
Practical tips
Use public transport, but check ticket coverage
We mainly used public transportation. An IC card is useful for paying fares in most major cities and buying goods in some stores, but you may need a specific local ticket in remote areas. In Kanazawa, we could use an IC card on the JR Machi bus line; other lines required a local one-day pass or separate fare.
For our exact point-to-point itinerary, single-fare tickets worked out cheaper than a JR Pass. We would not recommend buying the pass automatically for this route. Our comparison favored it more for a round trip, where return travel could add value.
We used Google Maps for navigation and connections. In the video, we also recommended HyperDia for more detailed advance planning.
Allow for the mountain journey
Torii gates at Kyoto's Fushimi Inari Shrine. · Photo by David Emrich on Unsplash
We bought the Koyasan World Heritage Ticket to cover our journey to Koyasan. The trip from Osaka took almost two hours, with the cable car from Gokurakubashi Station as the highlight.
Expect queues and respect restrictions
Fushimi Inari was extremely crowded, but we found fewer people the farther we walked uphill. Ramen Sen no Kaze also attracts dining-hour queues, and the Forest of Lamps at Teamlab Borderless had long waits.
At Okunoin, photography and filming are not allowed beyond the bridge toward the mausoleum. If you stay in a temple, we recommend attending the morning ritual to complete the experience. At Kasuga-Taisha, remember that the lanterns are only lit for two festivals, in February and August.
Where they stayed
Saizen-in, Koyasan
Our temple lodging had tatami floors, sliding doors and shared bathroom facilities. It felt more luxurious than we had imagined. The strictly vegetarian Buddhist dinner resembled a traditional kaiseki-style meal, and the overnight stay let us experience more than a quick temple visit.
An unnamed ryokan in Okuhida Onsen
Our ryokan offered traditional Japanese rooms, an option for a private onsen and access to rooftop baths. After our multi-course dinner, we returned to find the room prepared for sleeping. That customary touch still felt lovely. We also had breakfast before checking out; the property's name is not mentioned in the video.
Saizen-in, our overnight temple stay in Koyasan. · Photo by Benoît Deschasaux on Unsplash
Tokyo Zen Capsule Hotel
Our Tokyo capsules were inspired by traditional Japanese rooms and had more space than regular capsules, making the stay comfortable. With the expected amenities, we found it an enjoyable base. Our Osaka and Kanazawa hotels are not named.
Where they ate
In Osaka, we went to Ichiran for tonkotsu ramen and Okaru for okonomiyaki. Okaru was a particular favorite: these savory pancakes combine flour, eggs, cabbage and your choice of protein.
In Kyoto, we recommend Ramen Sen no Kaze if you are happy to queue during dining hours. We explored Nishiki Market's local dishes and produce, and finished our Kyoto stay with expensive beef at an unnamed Pontocho restaurant. For us, it was worth the price.
Kanazawa gave us several memorable meals. At Mori Mori Sushi in Omicho Market, you could order by tablet or take plates from the conveyor belt. Sushi Ippei was a cozy shop run by an elderly couple; the woman was especially attentive, explaining noteworthy pieces and how to eat them.
Omicho Market, where we stopped for sushi. · Photo by Poppy Lin on Unsplash
We tried gold-leaf-covered soft serve at Hakuichi outside Kenroku-en and squid-ink black miso ramen at an unnamed shop. In Tokyo, Uobei Sushi offered budget-friendly conveyor-style sushi. At Mipig Cafe, the pigs were the attraction, so we would not set high expectations for the beverage list. We also highlighted En Tea House for digital artwork displayed on tea. For a final food outing, we recommend exploring Omoide Yokocho's izakayas and trying whatever interests you.
Costs
Our total cost for two people during the two-week trip was around $3,100. The spoken breakdown does not specify individual accommodation, transport, meal or attraction costs, or clarify what was included in that total.
Our useful budget lessons were straightforward: single-fare rail tickets were cheaper for this particular route, Uobei was a budget-friendly sushi option, and our expensive Pontocho beef meal felt worth the splurge.
Our takeaway
What made this route rewarding was the contrast: Osaka's food and neon, Koyasan's stillness, Kyoto's gardens, mountain bathing and Tokyo's endless activity. Japan remained a country we could happily return to again.
If you follow our route, keep those quieter experiences alongside the famous sights. Give Okunoin time, walk farther up Fushimi Inari when the crowds feel heavy, and wake early for the mountain scenery at your onsen. Those moments mattered just as much to us as the big landmarks.

